PHU SANG
AN ENIGMATIC MOUNTAIN RANGE IN LAOS
NOVEMBER 2019
Located in the northern Laotian province of Phongsaly, the Phu Sang is home to mysterious Tibetan-Burmese subgroups belonging to the Akha (Iko) group, literally the intermediate or in-between people. The Tibetan-Burmese of Laos are of rare ethnic complexity since they are divided into 33 groups, including the Akha, Sila, Sida, Poussang, Keu, Alou, Black Lolo, Hayi, Ho, Pounoy and Mousseur. The Akha themselves are divided into 22 subgroups, with a population of 30,000 in Phongsaly province.

The Phu Sang, or Elephant Range, extends a distance of 100 kilometers long and 40 kilometers wide on a north-south axis parallel to the Nam Ou River. Rising to an altitude of 1,300 meters, it is distinguished by its unique human richness; within a relatively small area, there are about 15 minority groups and subgroups belonging to the four main ethno-linguistic families of Laos: Tibeto-Burmese, Austro-Asian, Thai-Kadai and Hmong-Dao. The Black Thais and Laos live in the valleys, the banks of the Nam Ou or its tributaries, while Khmu, Akha and Akha Hmong Akha settle on the ridges and peaks on the eastern edge of the massif. The Akha are in the majority and divided into seven subgroups: the Loma, Opa, Pala, Nu Quay, Muchi, P’u Sang and Puli.

In addition to its unique population, the Phu Sang stands out for its landscapes and natural environments. To the north, long lines of parallel ridges plunge towards the South with steep valleys. A primary forest lies to the west, with mountains and wooded valleys where elephants can be found. To the east, a set of steep peaks overlook the mythical Nam Ou River and, less than 100 kilometers away, Vietnam and the Dien Bien Phu valley. This location has given the Phu Sang a natural wall that has protected its inhabitants over the past decades.

In 1937, the Taupin guide to French Indochina described the Phu Sang as follows: The territory extends over the upper and middle Nam Ou basin, an important tributary of the Mekong with it conflicted upstream and around Luang Prabang. It is only an inextricable entanglement of steeply sloping mountains, more than three-quarters of them bare, separated by ravines and valleys, real ditches where multiple arroyos wind their way through ragged forests. These are that projections, confused elevations of hills, peaks, cones, nipples, pyramids, which extend as far as the eye can see, overlap, stretch and undulate one behind the other...

In ancient times the Phu Sang relied on the legendary Khmu kingdom, the Austro-Asian group endemic to Laos, for survival. It was enclosed by the three Thai principalities: to the north and west by Siphong Panna (South Yunnan); to the east by Siphong Chaû Taï, literally the country of the 12 provinces with its capital at Dien Bien Phu; and to the south by the kingdom of Luang Prabang. The Siphong Chaû Taï eventually annexed the Phu Sang area, and they successfully defended the region against the Dai Viet and the kingdom of Luang Prabang until the end of the Indochina war. This remarkable feat was mainly due to the skill of its leaders, the Deo family, and their alliances with the French colonial administration. Phu Sang was briefly controlled by the kingdom of Luang Prabang before becoming the southern part of the French 5th Military Territory.

In the 1930s, with an ephemeral peace reigning in the Phu Sang, the French cut pathways along the ridge lines to connect the communities and facilitate the settlement of the area by a Reinette, a maqui of the Groupement de Commandos Mixtes Aéroportés (GCMA), a special unit created by the French in Indochina. On December 18, 1957, Phongsaly officially became a province of the Royal Government of Laos. During the Secret War in Laos, the southern part of the massif was bombed by B-52s. Since 1975, some villages have been regrouped into communities along the pathways, while others, notably the Opa, remain relatively isolated.

Secret Indochina organized several survey missions to this enigmatic area in the 1990s and 2012 and has offered trekking and immersive programs since 2013

 

THE JAHAN
REMINISCENCE OF IMPERIAL INDIA

Navigating the mysterious Mekong River across ancient civilisations from Vietnam to Cambodia, the majestic Jahan is elegantly inspired by British colonial architecture infused with meticulous Indian décor. Travel back in time to early Indianised civilisations of Funan and Chenla, predecessors of the powerful Khmer empire; witness many historical chapters, the incredible landscapes and vibrant local life of Mekong Delta from a unique vantage point.

Explore the region’s enigmatic atmosphere through enchanting pre-Angkorian temples, colourful floating markets and dreamy rural villages surrounded by palm trees and crisscrossed canals. Receive first-hand knowledge about Cambodian modern history in a lecture with a specialist before dropping anchor in an isolated spot. Discover rustic riverside towns and be welcomed by local residents living in unspoiled communities; learn about their traditional livelihoods using the river’s abundant resources, such as silk manufacturing, fish farming and pottery making






BAL HANÖN
THE MYSTHICAL LOST CAPITAL-CITADEL OF THE ARECA

Reportedly built by King Po Kathit of the Kramuka lineage (the Areca clan), the ancient citadel of Bal Hanön was the last capital-citadel of the Cham and one of the first capitals of Panduranga, the southernmost Cham kingdom that today occupies the center of Binh Thuan province in southern Vietnam. In the 11th century, the historical chronicles and legends of the Cham designated Panduranga as the origin of Champa, an ancient capital of kings whose dynasties took on the emblematic name of the Areca with Bal Hanön as its capital-citadel. Depending on the period, the sites of the Paduranga capitals vary and remain sources of controversy. In 1835, the last one was located at the Bal Canar de Parik, the current port of Phan Ri, 25 kilometers northeast of Bal Hanön.

Bal Hanön is perched on a curve of the Song Luy River, in the centre of a semi-arid coastal peneplain that was once covered with cactus thickets and light forests where elephants, tigers and rhinos roamed. It is dominated to the west, southwest and north by the steep seafront of the Annamitic Cordillera mountain range, an array of misty peaks that were once the land of Raglan and Churu allies. To the east, it is bordered by the majestic Ihul Pron, the basin of the great White Sand Dunes that overlook the coast and the ancient port of Phan Ri.

Unfortified in the early days, Bal Hanön eventually acquired a wall 1,000 meters wide and about 1,500 meters long. The wall is made up of powerful embankments lined with limonite, reinforced in places by piles of rocks rolled from the nearby river where were plentiful. It is studded with solid wooden doors and reinforced with belfries. After the fall of the Paduranga, the city was destroyed and became known as the Song Luy fortress


             

THE STRANGE LIFE OF HOANG THI THE 
THE CHILD OF CONFLICT 5
In 1901, Hoang Thi The was born in a tumultuous time, to Hoang Hoa Tham, also known as Đề Thám, a Vietnamese national hero (or notorious rebel leader, history would argue) who led the longest anti-French movement in Vietnam (1884-1913). Her lineage of resistance ensured she would live an extraordinary life.

At the age of nine, The found herself arrested by the French army separated from her family and her childhood shattered by political conflict. The was then placed in the care of different French and Vietnamese officials in Tonkin, who made sure she was on strict surveillance, learned French and received a Catholic education, which continued in Bayonne, southwestern France.

Hoang Thi The was in her mid-twenties, receiving a first-rate French education, with a certain lack of commitment to any political ideologies. The adopted daughter of Paul Doumer, former Governor-General of Indochina and French President at the time, received a generous monthly allowance of 2,500 francs, quickly acquired the taste of luxury in Paris.

In the French capital, where the presence of Vietnamese working classes was increasing, fueling Paris with various ideological interests, Hoang Thi The’s private life was political as it was romantic, with multiple suitors approaching her for status and political gains. She was having the time of her life, as the daughter of a controversial figure, and enjoying the admiration not only from her countrymen but also Albert Sarraut, the Governor-General of French Indochina. She grew more supportive of the French administration,

 
THE THREATENED, MARVELOUS 
ASIAN BLACK BEAR 5

who provided her with a generous stipend every month, gradually causing the Vietnamese community to shun her, thinking she was sided with the enemy. As Hoang Thi The’s ties to the Vietnamese community in France wore thin, she found an opportunity to reinvent herself in an attempt to shed her shadow as De Tham’s daughter: stardom on the silver screen. In an interview for her debut, “La Lettre”, she self-introduced as a princess, a descendent of Chinese emperors, entirely leaving out the famous father figure from her newly invented persona. This attempt for a new marvelous life fantasy did not go unnoticed by the Vietnamese community in France and worsened her relationship with her countrymen.

A few years after a splendid wedding with a wealthy French man and surveillance on her life lessened, her stipend got halved and finally ended by the colonial administration in 1940. However, this was the the same year her marriage ended with her losing custody of her child. Hoang Thi The became a destitute woman, with one account witnessing her reading palms on the streets in Southwest France in 1945, ‘not enjoying all of her mental faculties’. In 1959, it was alleged that she turned down an offer from the president of South Vietnam to return to Vietnam. Her later life was spent quietly in North Vietnam, at peace.

Secret Indochina offers various immersive war tours, offering a new perspective in understanding the conflicts and the resulting traumas in the Indochinese Peninsula region, while discovering the beauty of its landscape and people beyond the context of war


 
Secret Indochina
Secret Indochina is a Destination Management Company of Amica JSC, established in 2011 following the encounter of Tran Quang Hieu and Nicolas Vidal, two professionals passionate about authentic and impactful travel. Secret Indochina strives to lead travellers to outstanding sites, magical places, and little-known ethnic communities in Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia

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